Chicken Kiev
Chicken Kiev cut open
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Alternative names |
Côtelette de volaille, suprême de volaille à la Kiev |
Course |
Main |
Place of origin |
Russian Empire |
Serving temperature |
hot |
Main ingredients |
Chicken breast, garlic butter, herbs, bread crumbs |
Cookbook: Chicken Kiev Media: Chicken Kiev |
Chicken Kiev (Ukrainian: котлета по-київськи, kotleta po-kyivsky, Russian: котлета по-киевски, kotleta po-kiyevski; literally "cutlet Kiev-style") is a popular dish of chicken fillet pounded and rolled around cold butter, then coated with eggs and breadcrumbs, and either fried or baked. The dish is also known in Russian, Ukrainian and Polish cuisines as côtelette de volaille (Russian: котлета де-воляй, tr. kotleta de-volyay, Polish: kotlet de volaille).[3] The French de volaille means "of poultry" but denotes almost exclusively chicken dishes in French cookbooks. The French name means thus simply "chicken cutlet". As fillets are often referred to as suprêmes in French cookery, the dish is also named suprême de volaille à la Kiev.
Contents
- 1 History
- 1.1 Côtelette de volaille
- 1.2 Novo-Mikhailovsky cutlet
- 2 Variants
- 3 In popular culture
- 4 Similar dishes
- 5 See also
- 6 References and notes
- 7 Sources
History
The history of the dish is not well documented, and various sources make controversial claims about its origin.
Côtelette de volaille
Despite the original French name, the recipe is unknown in French cuisine, where the term côtelette de volaille refers to chicken breasts in general and is used synonymously with chicken fillet or suprême. The French term also denotes a minced chicken cutlet. The general Russian term for chicken cutlets, kurinaya kotleta (куриная котлета), refers predominantly to minced cutlets, whereas kotleta de-voliay is applied exclusively to the stuffed chicken breast dish. The latter name appears in the pre- and post-revolutionary Russian literature (in cookbooks,[3] as well as in fiction[15][16][17][18][19]) since the beginning of the 20th century and is usually mentioned as a common restaurant dish.[15][16][17][18][19]
The recipe in the classical Russian cookery textbook The Practical Fundamentals of the Cookery Art by Pelageya Alexandrova-Ignatieva (which had eleven editions between 1899–1916) includes a complex stuffing similar to quenelle (a mixture of minced meat, in this case the rest meat of chicken, and cream) but with butter added. It also points out that "the cutlets de volaille are made from whole chicken fillets, in the same way as the game cutlets à la Maréchale".[20] The recipe is preceded by a similar one for grouse cutlets à la Maréchale with a quenelle and truffle stuffing.[21]
The term à la Maréchale ("marshal-style") denotes in French cookery tender pieces of meat, such as cutlets, escalopes, sweetbreads, or chicken breasts, which are treated à l'anglais ("English-style"), i.e. coated with eggs and breadcrumbs, and sautéed. According to the Russian food historian William Pokhlyobkin, dishes à la Maréchale were created in France during the reign of Louis XIV and were introduced to Russia after the victory over Napoleon in 1814. Numerous recipes of such dishes, some of them with stuffings, are described both in Western and Russian cookbooks of the 19th century. Among the stuffed versions, on finds recipes for a rabbit à la Maréchale filled with duxelles and a fowl fillet à la Maréchale stuffed with truffles and herbs in The Modern Cook (1859) by Charles Elmé Francatelli., and a similar filet de poulets à la Maréchale with herbs and forcemeat in La cuisine classique by Urbain Dubois (1868). Elena Molokhovets' A Gift to Young Housewives, the most successful Russian cookbook of the 19th century, has included since its first edition in 1861 an elaborate recipe for grouse à la Maréchale stuffed with madeira sauce with champignons and truffles.
The Russian Tea Room Cookbook notes that chicken Kiev was "most likely … a creation of the great French chef Carême at the Court of Alexander I." Marie-Antoine Carême spent just several months of the year 1818 in St. Petersburg, but made a profound impact on Russian cuisine at this short time. The reforms carried out by his followers introduced in particular meat cuts, such as cutlets, steaks, escalopes etc. into Russian cookery. However, it is unknown whether it was Carême who created the Russian côtelette de volaille.
While the roots of this dish can thus be traced back to the French haute cuisine, the origin of the particular recipe known today as chicken Kiev, with the elaborate stuffings replaced by butter with herbs, is disputed.
Novo-Mikhailovsky cutlet
The entree has traditionally been considered Ukrainian in origin since its name comes from Kiev, the capital of Ukraine. However, William Pokhlyobkin claimed that chicken Kiev was invented in the St. Petersburg Merchants' Club during the early 20th century as Novo-Mikhailovsky cutlet, and was subsequently renamed kotleta po-kiyevski by a Soviet restaurant.
Variants
Chicken Kiev is made from a boned and skinned breast which is cut lengthwise, pounded and stuffed with butter. Western recipes usually call for garlic butter, while in Russian ones regular butter is used. Herbs (parsley and dill) can be added to the butter.
In the classical preparation of French côtelettes de volaille, the humerus bone of the wing is left attached. This also holds for their Russian versions[3] and in particular for chicken Kiev. For serving, the bone is usually covered with a frilled paper napkin. However, industrially produced pure fillets are often used nowadays, and the cutlets are served without the bone. A spherically shaped version was developed by English chef Jesse Dunford Wood.
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Classical version with humerus retained
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In popular culture
- Chicken Kiev, introduced in Britain during 1976, was Marks & Spencer company's first ready-made meal. As a whole, Chicken Kievs remain very popular in the UK, being readily available in supermarkets and served in some restaurant chains.
- Chicken Kiev is the name used by William Safire for a speech made in Kiev during August 1991 by then U.S. President George H.W. Bush cautioning Ukrainians against "suicidal nationalism".
- In the Russian translation of Mulan, when Mushu fries Shan Yu's falcon he literally says, "Chicken Kiev without garnish."
- In the Corner Gas episode "R2 Bee Too", Brent Leroy is introduced to chicken Kiev and is immediately hooked; however it ruins his appetite for chili cheese dogs (his original favorite food) and he becomes "the food critic from hell".
- In the Friends episode "The One with Ross's Wedding", when the Chicken Tarragon becomes unavailable for Emily and Ross' wedding, they must settle for Chicken Kiev.
- In the Mad Men episode "Public Relations", Don Draper and his date both order this entree for their dinner.
- In the Orange is the New Black episode "The Chickening", Galina "Red" Reznikova, the prison chef, soon after being informed that a chicken was spotted in the yard, says: "No more processed chicken that looks like a hockey puck and tastes like … wet paper. Real chicken Kiev.", smacking her lips as she does so. It is of note that Red is Russian.
Similar dishes
There are other entrees similar to chicken Kiev. Particularly popular is Chicken Cordon Bleu with a cheese and ham filling instead of butter. The recipe of Karađorđeva šnicla, a Serbian breaded veal or pork cutlet, was inspired by chicken Kiev.
See also
- Chicken nugget
- List of Russian dishes
- Ukrainian cuisine
References and notes
- ^ a b c Alexandrova-Ignatieva (1909), p. 425.
- ^ a b Averchenko (1914). "Ладно. Выберу. Сделайте ей котлеты де-воляй. — Только не котлеты де-воляй! Это все шансонетки едят — котлеты де-воляй." – "Make cutlets de volaille for her. / Anything but cutlets de volaille! It's what chanteuses eat, cutlets de volaille."
- ^ a b Bulgakov (1928–40), p. 58, online parallel text. "В самом деле, не пропадать же куриным котлетам де-воляй?" – "And, really, can one let chicken cutlets de volaille perish?"
- ^ a b Stepun (1947). In his memoirs Fyodor Stepun recalls in particular his school graduation in May 1900 and mentions: "Обедали мы совсем как взрослые: закуска, котлеты «de volaille», Гурьевская каша и к ней две бутылки шампанского..." – "We were dining like adults: zakuski, cutlets de volaille, Guriev porridge and two bottles of champagne..."
- ^ a b Vorobyov (1947), p. 88. "Котлеты «де-воляй» готовятся на два вкуса, — поучал Бондарин. — Есть котлеты «де-воляй» по-киевски и котлеты «де-воляй жардиньер»." — "Cutlets de volaille are cooked for two tastes," tutored Bondarin. "There are cutlets de volaille Kiev-style and cutlets de volaille jardiniere."
- ^ a b Sologub (1926), p. 42. "И породисты, и горды, // В элегантных сюртуках, // В лакированных туфлях, // Лошадиные две морды // Ржут в саду Шато-Гуляй, // Жрут котлеты де-воляй."
- ^ Alexandrova-Ignatieva (1909), pp. 421 (ingredients for côtelettes de volaille), 425 (recipe for côtelettes de volaille). The recipe for côtelette de volaille reads: "Котлеты де-воляйль приготовляются из цельных куриных филеев, как котлеты марешаль из дичи (см. по оглавлению); из одной курицы получается всего две котлеты. Отделив филеи курицы от костей с плечевыми косточками, снять с них пленки, отбить слегка тяпкой, чтобы филей имел везде одинаковую толщину; маленькие филейчики также отбить, чтобы были шире и тоньше. Из всей остальной мякоти приготовить фарш, как для кнели, но только с прибавкою сливочного масла, которое кладется в фарш при толчении его в ступке. Приготовив все указанным образом, нафаршировать большие филеи кнелевым фаршем, положить внутрь по кусочку чистого льда, накрыть маленькими филейчиками, запанировать в яйце и тертом белом хлебе и изжарить на отколерованном сливочном масле, как и прочие котлеты. Гарниры и соуса подаются самые разнообразные." A somewhat similar recipe in English is given in Watt (2014), p. 100.
- ^ Alexandrova-Ignatieva (1909), p. 415(recipe for game cutlets à la Maréchale)
Sources
- П. В. Абатуров; et al. (1955). "1145. Котлета по-киевски". In М. О. Лифшиц. Кулинария. Москва: Госторгиздат, Министерство пищевой промышленности СССР. [P. V. Abaturov; et al. (1955). M. O. Lifschitz, ed. Cookery (in Russian). Moscow: Gostorgizdat, USSR Ministry of Food Industry. ]
- Пётр Филиппович Аксенов (1958). Рестораны и кафе Москвы. Москва: Госторгиздат, Министерство пищевой промышленности СССР. [Pyotr Aksyonov (1958). Restaurants and cafes of Moscow (in Russian). Moscow: Gostorgizdat, USSR Ministry of Food Industry. ]
- Пелагея Павловна Александрова-Игнатьева (1909). Практические основы кулинарного искусства. Санкт-Петербург. [Pelageya Alexandrova-Ignatieva (1909). The Practical Fundamentals of the Cookery Art (in Russian). St. Petersburg. ]
- Åslund, Anders (March 2009). How Ukraine Became a Market Economy and Democracy. Peterson Institute for International Economics.
- Аркадий Аверченко (1914). Женщина в ресторане. Санкт-Петербург: Новый сатирикон. [Arkady Averchenko (1914). A woman in a restaurant (in Russian). St. Petersburg: Novy Satirikon. ]
- Mikhail Bulgakov (1928–40). The Master and Margarita. Moscow: Moskva (first publication 1966–67).
- Александр Былинов (1959). Пароль "ДП-3". Moscow: Молодая гвардия. [Alexander Bylinov (1959). Password "DP-3" (in Russian). Moscow: Molodaya Gvardiya. ]
- Felicity Cloake (2012-06-07). "How to cook the perfect chicken Kiev". The Guardian.
- Cracknell, H. L.; Kaufmann, R. J. (1999). Practical Professional Cookery. Cengage Learning EMEA. ISBN 978-1-86152-873-5.
- Velimir Dejanović (2004-06-11). "Одликовао шницлу "Карађорђеву"". Politika (in Serbian).
- Urbain Dubois (1868). La cuisine classique: études pratiques, raisonnées et démonstratives de l'Ecole française appliquée au service à la russe (in French) (3 ed.). E. Dentu.
- Auguste Escoffier (1907). A Guide to Modern Cookery. London: W. Heinemann.
- Charles Elmé Francatelli (1859). The Modern Cook. reprinted by Applewood Books, 2008.
- Darra Goldstein (October 1995). "Russia, Carême, and the Culinary Arts". The Slavonic and East European Review. The Modern Humanities Research Association and University College London, School of Slavonic and East European Studies. 73 (4): 691–715.
- В. Д. Коростышевский; К. И. Левитский; Н. П. Цыпленков; Г. Ф. Шорин (1955). Организация предприятий общественного питания. Москва: Госторгиздат, Министерство пищевой промышленности СССР. [V. D. Korostyshevskiy; K. I. Levitskiy; N. P. Tsyplyonkov; G. F. Shorin (1958). The organisation of foodservice (in Russian). Moscow: Gostorgizdat, USSR Ministry of Food Industry. ]
- Leto, Mario Jack; Bode, Willi Karl Heinrich (2006). The Larder Chef. Routledge. ISBN 978-0-75066-899-6.
- Adolphe Meyer (1903). The post-graduate cookery book. New York: Caterer Pub. Co.
- Елена Молоховец (1861). Подарок молодым хозяйкам (in Russian). Санкт-Петербург. A Gift to Young Housewives, English translation: Joyce Stetson Toomre (1998). Classic Russian Cooking: Elena Molokhovets' a Gift to Young Housewives. Indiana University Press. ISBN 978-0-253-21210-8.
- Moran, Joe (2005-01-24). "Hum, ping, rip: the sounds of cooking". New Statesman. Retrieved 2008-09-04.
- Вильям Похлебкин (2006). Кулинарный словарь. Москва: Центрполиграф. ISBN 5-227-00460-9. [William Pokhlyobkin (2006). Dictionary of Cookery (in Russian). Moscow: Centrpoligraf. ]
- Вильям Похлёбкин (2004). Национальные кухни наших народов (PDF). Москва: Центполиграф. ISBN 5-9524-0718-8. [William Pokhlyobkin (2004). National cuisines of our peoples (in Russian). Moscow: Centrpoligraf. ]
- Вильям Похлёбкин (1997). "Стреляющие котлеты". Огонёк. Москва. [William Pokhlyobkin (1997). "Popping cutlets". Ogonyok (in Russian). Moscow. ]
- Kate Salter (2010-10-10). "Cathy Chapman: the woman who changed the way we eat". The Telegraph.
- Фёдор Сологуб (1997) [стихотворение 1926 г.]. "И породисты, и горды...". Неизданный Федор Сологуб. [Fyodor Sologub (1997) [a poem written in 1926]. "High-bred and proud...". Unpublished Fyodor Sologub (in Russian). ]
- Fyodor Stepun (1947). Vergangenes und Unvergängliches (in German). 1. Munich: Kösel-Verlag.
- Faith Steward-Gordon and Nika Hazelton (1981). Russian Tea Room Cookbook. Richard Marek Publishers. ISBN 978-0399901287.
- Robert Strybel (2003). Polish Holiday Cookery. Hippocrene Books. ISBN 978-0781809948.
- Robert Strybel; Maria Strybel (2005). Polish Heritage Cookery. Hippocrene Books. ISBN 978-0781811248.
- "Maréchale (à la)". La glosssaire des termes de cuisine (in French). Supertoinette.com.
- Charles Vintcent (2004). Vintcent's French Food Dictionary. Harriman House Limited. ISBN 978-1-897597-48-4.
- Anne Volokh (1983). The Art of Russian Cuisine. New York: MacMillan.
- Евгений Воробьёв (1947). "Этого нет в поваренной книге". Однополчане: рассказы. Военное издательство Министерства вооружёных сил СССР. [Yevgeny Vorobyov (1947). "This is not written in a cookbook". Companions in arms (in Russian). Moscow: Voenizdat, publishing house of the USSR Ministry of Armed Forces. ]
- Marcus Warren (2001-06-19). "E-mail from Ukraine". Electronic Telegraph.
- "Bush Sr. clarifies 'Chicken Kiev' speech". Washington Times. 2004-05-24. Retrieved 2008-09-04.
- Alexander Watt (2014). Paris Bistro Cookery. Routledge. ISBN 978-1-317-84617-8.
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